2020-12-05 07:00:34

My journey around India in 80 trains

Monisha Rajesh had a complex relationship with her parents’ homeland, until she saw all of Indian life played out on the country’s railwaySix-people deep, and growing by the second, the crowd tensed. A single knuckle pressed into my back and betel-nut breath filled my nostrils as a steady beat rose above the din. Against the peach pink of Mumbai’s evening skies, the commuter service curled into view, passengers hanging from the sides like moving livery. Braking with a wail and grind of metal, the train slowed into the station and I braced against the surge of bodies from behind. Like rel